Travel Summary: Baja California

With the Baja Peninsula is in the rearview, here are some thoughts about our experience travelling down Highway 1, approximately 1400 kilometers from the border to La Paz (plus a couple hundred more with our loop round the Cape).

We entered Mexico on November 11th. In the late afternoon of December 8th, we were loading onto Baja Ferries for our twelve+ hour journey across the Gulf to Mazatlán and destinations beyond. This was probably a little bit more time than we needed (with most our time spent in the far south), but it was pretty close. The expected highlights were the highlights so there aren’t any big adjustments I would make. If you’re doing a trip like ours (ie continuing to the mainland) make sure you ask yourself: Why Baja? Maybe heading straight to Mazatlán is a better way to go? More thoughts on that, later.

For now, the perks. Baja is accessible. If you aren’t going to the mainland, the paperwork is simpler, for one. There are also lots of folks from California, BC, Alberta who are down here on a semi-permanent basis and can share their wisdom. It’s a good place to ask for advice on where to go and what to expect. There is an established route, with established stops. You won’t get lost.

It also offers different features for different travellers: from independent explorers with good 4-wheel drive, to someone airdropping in to bounce around the larger centers and just about everything in between. I say ‘just about’ because we did find the middle category slightly lacking. Between the snowbirds and the offroad jeeps, it felt like it fell a little short for the travel that we typically do. My guess is that this is a Mexico-wide issue, so I’ll likely have to re-evaluate this position.

Like any good place, you’ll grow into it. In this way, the Baja is a nice ‘package.’ It comes complete and for most there will be little reason to contemplate what differences might be found a ferry ride away. But as a package, it works better when taken as a whole. Coming down the whole length of it contextualizes all the development of the La Paz region. You need the contrast. For many, this just isn’t possible and the best I can recommend is to get away from Los Cabos (and maybe Todos Santos too) to Loreto and La Paz. The Baja is as much about what isn’t there as it is about specific sites and cities. Cactus fields, wild beaches, dusty road stops, and looming mountains – these are all the good stuff you’ll hope to absorb.

For a journey to the Baja there are some practical things to be aware of. Load up on fuel (especially in the north), learn how to pass trucks safely or get used to driving slowly (especially in the north), you can fishtail on sand like you do on snow, cash is king, it might be cooler than expected if travelling in winter… The desert is serious, but if you stick to the main trail, you’ll be fine and can’t step too far wrong. It felt safe (perhaps depending on how you feel about dogs). For us, it came down to the ferry which I will not sugarcoat is a massive, expensive hassle. I’m glad we chose this route, but… It might not be worth it for everyone. You won’t know until you’ve done it.